While living abroad in Paris, I developed an affinity for all sorts of charcuterie. While the dried styles of saucisson are tasty enough, I really dig the rillettes, pâtés, and terrines. I always thought to myself: the only thing these potted meats are missing is a punch of smoke.
My first foray into smokifying a recipe comes from a trip I made to Seattle where I had the most delicious smoked salmon rillettes at an unassuming corner bar in downtown. I searched around for recipe inspiration and landed on Thomas Keller’s from Bouchon. My pastis of choice is in limited quantities so I changed the brine and omitted some steps to make it a more rustic recipe fit for hot smoking.
This dish is an absolute crowd pleaser when I have people over for barbecue gatherings. I serve it simply— some salmon and a piece of crusty baguette (I’m partial to Easy Tiger myself).
Hot-smoked salmon rillettes
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2-2.5 lb filet of salmon
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2 medium shallots (minced)
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8 tablespoons butter (room temperature— THIS IS IMPORTANT)
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1 tablespoon crème fraîche
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Juice of 1 lemon
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2 tablespoons vegetable oil
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2 teaspoons smoked paprika
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1 teaspoon white pepper
- 1 bundle of chives (diced)
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Brine
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1/2 cup sugar
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1/2 cup kosher salt
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7 cups water
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Smoking that Salmon
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Dissolve sugar and salt in water (I use a little bit of hot water to speed up the process and blend with cold water— thanks Cook’s Illustrated!)
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Place salmon filet in the brine and refrigerate for 1 to 3 hours
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Remove salmon from brine, pat dry and coat both sides of filet with oil
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Season with white pepper and paprika
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Light your grill/smoker with 1/2 – 3/4 full chimney starter, when coals are patchy with gray dump the coals into a charcoal basket placed on one side of the grill
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Add one fist sized chunk of oak or alder
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Oil the grill grates and place salmon skin side down opposite the charcoal basket
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Smoke the salmon and check for doneness at 45 minutes or so— some recipes I’ve seen call for a 1.5 hr smoke but I’ve never had to let it go that long
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Remove salmon from smoker/grill and set aside to cool while preparing other rillettes ingredients
Rillettes need fat— butter does the trick
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Lightly sauté shallots in one tablespoon of butter and season with a pinch of salt
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Put the remaining butter in a mixing bowl and whip with a spatula until smooth, add the crème fraîche and stir
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Flake the smoked salmon into large chunks and add to the butter mixture along with lemon juice, shallots, chives
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Season to taste with salt and white pepper
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I like to get a chill on my rillettes but it is also tasty warm— you do you.
Can I get some more of that fish dip…to go?
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If you’d like to send some home with guests or take to a salmon lover at the office, you can portion some rillettes into small mason jars
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To make it look very official, pour a thin layer of melted clarified butter on top of the rillettes to seal
Santé.
John